Anyone have any experience with the Daiwa Ballistic Crankin Rod? They are on sale at Tackle Warehouse for $65. I am interested in these rods, especially the longer rods so any info would be appreciated.
Nope, but that sounds like a good price. Can they beat or match a BPS Crankin Stick performance wise? Just because a piece of fishing equipment is normally priced higher than another does not mean that it performs better.
Without being able to get your hands on one then it’s a shot in the dark. A couple of common sense concerns would be:
Is it heavy and/or awkward?
Is it sensitive?
Does it have a brittle glass tip (excessively thin walled ect)?
What are the powers and actions really like?
At 60 something bucks I say go for it. Even if it is merely competent, it is still worth it at that price. If you buy it , let us know how it is.
CincySid - 29 June 2013 03:05 AM
yea, I like the idea of more glass towards the tip and more graphite at the butt end.
A composite construction cranking rod is pretty nice. I fished with these type of cranking rods until I gave S-glass a shot with my KVD launcher. One of the concerns on a glass tipped rod is durability. I’ve broken every single one I’ve had. The conclusion I’ve come to is that you want a solid glass tip section if spending big bucks on a rod so as to have that durability. The hollow glass section on these rods are prone to failure as a result of being stepped on the casting deck. Ever fish with a glass rod? They are thick walled and large diameter for a reason where as these graphite/glass composite construction crankbait rods have a graphite rod like wall thickness and diameter to the glass section so as to have a seamless flow from high mod graphite to the glass tip section.
Great way to construct a crankbait rod but durability is a concern if you are particularly brutal on equipment. When it comes to graphite/glass construction crankbait rods with hollow glass tips, the rod to beat at any price is the BPS Crankin Stick IMO.
I have a bunch of Ugly Stik Lite’s which are a composite glass and graphite rods. haven’t broke one yet. I don’t have a casting deck so I don’t step on my rods. I ordered the Ballistic 7’11” Medium rod. I’ve got a BPS Cranckin Stick and I am not real pleased with it. it is ok, but I don’t get much distance on my shallow cranks and I don’t fish medium or deep cranks and it is a 7’ ML, fast. I got better rods for throwing lipless and squarebills, i’ll use it for light swim jigs, chatterbaits and light spinnerbaits.
ML rods are not suited for making long casts with bass cranks. Too much of the energy in the cast is dissipated into the light whippy action of the rod unless you are throwing some really light weight baits. The Ugly Sticks have a special construction technique that lends them their indestructible nature and not the materials themselves. I believe those rods are also solid glass tipped as well.
the ML rod throws 1/2 oz lipless a long way but not the lighter squarebills. I have medium baitcast rods that are a lot whippier than the ML BPS crankin stick, I got the ML because the Medium felt to stiff and I don’t throw a lot of big cranks to get the rod to load.
The whippier rods I have throw the squarebills at least 10-15 yards farther than the BPS CS.
Some rods can have some pretty wonky power ratings. I don’t recall the BPS Cranking Stick as being one of those rods but I’ve got stuff that rated at M powers that ranges between ML and MH in actual power depending on the rod.
Maybe the ML Cranking Sticks are too stiff to be a true ML? I know the 7’6’’ MH BPS Crankin Stick can go toe to to with my 7’10’’ MH KVD crankbait rod in casting distance. If distance is really the #1 priority then you might want to change lines. A zero memory line will outcast a line with memory every time. Most any #30 braid and #10 XL Armor coated are some great casting lines.
yes, I know, I have some MH rods that are not as stiff as some M rods. I think it depends a lot if the blanks are made from IM6’s. 7’s or 8’s, 9’s or high modulus. the M BPS CS just felt to stiff for what I wanted to throw on them, that’s why I went to ML. I watched a video of an Elite fisherman teaching how to fish a lipless and he preferred a ML. Don’t remember his name or the rod , and that stuck in my mind. to get any distance throwing the squarebills I need a whippy rod. the 7’ ML, fast BPS CS throws lipless fine but not the squarebills. personally I like the im6 mix with glass the best, its whippy but strong and still fairly light. problem is can’t find them anymore. I usually use 12# Pline CX premium and like it, it casts smooth and is strong.
yes, I know, I have some MH rods that are not as stiff as some M rods. I think it depends a lot if the blanks are made from IM6’s. 7’s or 8’s, 9’s or high modulus. the M BPS CS just felt to stiff for what I wanted to throw on them, that’s why I went to ML. I watched a video of an Elite fisherman teaching how to fish a lipless and he preferred a ML. Don’t remember his name or the rod , and that stuck in my mind. to get any distance throwing the squarebills I need a whippy rod. the 7’ ML, fast BPS CS throws lipless fine but not the squarebills. personally I like the im6 mix with glass the best, its whippy but strong and still fairly light. problem is can’t find them anymore. I usually use 12# Pline CX premium or 10# BG, both do really well and I change my line usually every 2 or 3 weeks.
only real way is to buy one and find out, so that’s what I did.
I got the Daiwa Ballistic rod 7’11” M on Monday and spooled a reel up with 12 lb. Pline CX premium. I haven’t fished it yet, but it seems to have the action I want. its a medium fast to medium action tip and its whippy the first 2 feet or so and it gets progressively stiffer as you go towards the butt end. should be a good parabolic rod with some good backbone. should be able to cast the squarebills well. Planning on trying it tomorrow. I got one pond I can fish it in that’s not so weeded up. I’ll say one thing, Tackle Warehouse does a good job with the shipping, solid tube and no charge.
took the Ballistic out today and it casts squarebills better than any rod I have, even farther than a spinning rod. got a good parabolic bend but has some good backbone to. I couldn’t be happier with the rod. got hung up in some heavy weeds and it bent the rod to get the squarebill out. Way better than the Crankin Stick I have.
as far as catching fish today, not so happy. bluebird skies, and no wind and crystal clear, glassy water. never saw any bass anywhere. they are buried up in the weeds in the deeper water I can’t cast to. so it was one of the few days I skunked out. why its fishing and not catching. didn’t fish very long, knew it was not going to be a good day from early on. so after 3.5 hours and 3 ponds I packed up and came home. didn’t expect to catch anything anyway. wanted to try out some different combos, which I did, was my plan. So mission accomplished.
I just ordered the 7’2” MH for lipless cranks. Can’t wait to try it this fall. I got a bunch of 3/4 and 1 oz ratl traps to try for the bigger bass this fall and early spring for when they put on the feed bag. should be able to cast 70 yards or more with the heavier baits from the bank.
Tried an Abu Silver Max I bought from the refurb store 2 years ago for 35 bucks ea., free shipping, (bought 5 of them), dialed it in and it performed great. no complaints. i’m really liking ABU reels, also KVD signatures and Johnny Morris. all smooth as silk and cast great. only backlashes are my fault pushing the reel for that extra yard of distance. i’ll never learn to quit pushing the reels or be satisfied. lol, just me being stupid.
How’s the power on that rod? I’m in the market for a squarebill rod. I’ve got 2 rods that I use now. One rod is light in power and allows the fish to take the bait deep into their mouths, even with braid, but is unable to control even a 4 pound fish. The other rod has a lot more power and great control, but barely hooks the fish with the rear treble running XL mono.
I would say its good, limber enough to get the hooks deeper because of the glass in the tip end and enough backbone towards the butt end to control the fish. the top 3 feet are like the first rod you described and the bottom 4 or in my case 5 feet is like the rod you described second. best of both world I would say. I have the 7’11” M for the squarebills and just ordered the 7’2” MH for the lipless and deeper diving cranks. it has a moderate taper on it and gets increasingly stiffer as you move towards the butt. so I would say it has plenty of power with out ripping the hooks out.
just casting squarebills on the long rod was so easy, it was a pleasure. no need to load up so strong on the cast to get distance. it got out there a long way by letting the rod do the work. finally got a rod I really liked for squarebills!!!!! and it is reasonably light too. didn’t notice the weight at all.
I don’t think you will have any problems throwing squarebills with this rod, just from the feel of it and snagging 4 lbs of salad a few times. for $65 and free shipping definitely a good buy.